Located on Turkey's eastern border, Kars is undoubtedly best known for its famous aged cheese and freezing winters. Although tourism initiatives have been underway for years, the city has only recently begun to receive the recognition it deserves, largely thanks to the popularity of the Eastern Express (Doğu Ekspresi) train journeys. Even so, I believe Kars still deserves much more promotion and investment in tourism. With winter temperatures dropping as low as -40°C and cool, green highlands during summer, Kars is one of Turkey's most important cities for both agriculture and livestock farming. Beyond that, the city is famous for its skiing opportunities, its unique powder snow—considered among the finest in the world—its delicious goose raised in the harsh cold climate, its rare examples of Baltic and Russian architecture, and its rich history shaped by countless civilizations over thousands of years. Once Kars receives the attention and investment it truly deserves, I have no doubt it will become one of Turkey's most remarkable travel destinations. Let's discover this fascinating city together.

WHEN TO VISIT?

Kars is a year-round destination, with each season offering a completely different experience. Your choice depends on what you're looking for. If you want to enjoy breathtaking snowy landscapes and experience a true winter, visit during the colder months. If freezing temperatures aren't your thing, spring, summer, or autumn are excellent alternatives. Personally, I highly recommend visiting in winter. Living in Istanbul, we rarely experience a real winter. In Kars, however, you'll discover exactly what winter is meant to feel like. Exploring this city—famous for its snowstorms and icy weather—during its most authentic season will leave you with unforgettable memories.

HOW TO GET THERE?

1. By Plane

 There are direct flights to Kars Harakani Airport from Istanbul, Ankara, Izmir, Antalya, and Nicosia. The airport is located very close to the city center. Airport shuttle buses are available, and you can also take a taxi or rent a car. 

2. By Bus

Long-distance buses operate from many cities across Turkey to Kars Bus Terminal. From the terminal, the city center is only a 10–15 minute drive away.

3. By Car

If you're planning to drive to Kars, especially during winter, there is one very important thing to keep in mind. Winter conditions can be extremely harsh, with temperatures dropping to -40°C. Winter tires are essential, and carrying snow chains is strongly recommended. Be prepared for challenging road conditions and always consider the weather before setting off.

Where to Stay

There are accommodation options both in Kars city center and in Sarıkamış, which is famous for its ski resorts and winter sports. Among the most popular hotels are Hotel Katerina Palace and Hotel Cheltikov, both housed in beautifully restored Baltic-style buildings. In recent years, these hotels have become especially popular on social media thanks to their impressive architecture and timeless atmosphere, offering guests the feeling of traveling back in time.

HOW MANY DAYS SHOULD YOU SPEND IN KARS?

In my opinion, two days is enough to explore Kars comfortably. If you plan to go skiing in Sarıkamış, simply add as many extra days as you like.

DO YOU NEED TO RENT A CAR?

Before You Go

• If you're visiting during winter, pack very warm clothing. Thermal underwear, insulated boots, gloves, and winter accessories are essential
• Another important point for winter travelers is road safety. Make sure your vehicle is equipped with winter tires. The streets in the city center can become icy and slippery—we witnessed several cars skidding during our visit. Sudden snowstorms are also common around Çıldır Lake and Sarıkamış. On our way to Çıldır Lake, we got caught in a blizzard so intense that we couldn't even see the road, let alone the traffic signs. It felt like driving into a white void. Based on that experience, my biggest recommendation is to always check the weather forecast before heading out.
• If you're visiting during summer, don't forget that evenings can still be surprisingly cool.
• If you'd like to walk or take a horse-drawn sleigh ride on the frozen surface of Çıldır Lake, it's best to visit in January or February. We visited in December 2023, and unfortunately, the lake had not frozen yet.
• You'll encounter many beautiful examples of Baltic architecture throughout the city. However, although Kars was originally planned using a grid layout, these historic buildings are scattered among modern apartment blocks rather than forming a continuous historic district. As a result, you won't quite feel like you're walking through a Baltic city. While the historic buildings have been well preserved, the surrounding modern structures unfortunately interrupt the architectural harmony.  

PLACES TO VISIT IN KARS

1. Kars Castle

Kars Castle occupies one of the city's most central locations, overlooking the Kars River. Originally built in 1153 AD by the Saltukids, it later served as an important defensive stronghold during the Ottoman–Russian wars. Inside the castle you'll find the remains of several structures, cisterns, and ammunition storage buildings. Constructed entirely from cut stone, the castle is open to visitors free of charge.

2. Kars Bridge (Stone Bridge)

The historic Stone Bridge crossing the Kars River was commissioned by Lala Mustafa Pasha in 1579. It was originally built to connect Evliya Mosque with Kars Castle. Made entirely from black basalt stone, the bridge is easily recognizable by its dark appearance. It features three arches and remains one of the city's most photogenic landmarks. Photography Tip: Visit early in the morning or around sunset for the best lighting.

3. İsmet Paşa Primary School

Built between 1886 and 1888 during the Russian occupation by Armenian craftsmen, the building has served as a school ever since. What makes it truly remarkable is its architecture. It is one of the finest examples of Baltic architecture in Kars. Designed in a U-shaped plan, its monumental Neo-Classical façade makes it one of the city's most significant architectural and cultural landmarks. Don't miss it.

4. Kars Provincial Special Administration Building

Originally constructed as a church in the late 19th century, this impressive building is another outstanding example of Baltic architecture. Built from polygonal basalt stones, it later served as a branch of Ziraat Bank during the Republican era.

5. Hotel Cheltikov

Built in the 19th century in the Baltic architectural style, this elegant mansion belonged to the Russian Cheltikov family, who settled in Kars after the Russo-Turkish War of 1877–1878. Over the years, it served as a school, an opera house, and a hospital before being carefully restored as a boutique hotel. Its richly decorated stone façade, reliefs, and ornamental details make it one of Kars' architectural highlights. Staying here offers a unique opportunity to experience the atmosphere of the city's Russian period.

6. Hotel Katerina Palace

According to local legend, Hotel Katerina Palace was built in 1879 by Tsar Nicholas II in honor of his wife. (Although the story is popular, historians debate its accuracy.) After its construction, the building was used for military purposes and as an ammunition depot. Today it has been beautifully restored and operates as a hotel. Built entirely from cut basalt stone in a U-shaped layout, it is one of the finest surviving examples of Baltic architecture in Kars. The interior is equally impressive, with ceiling heights reaching 4–5 meters, creating a grand and elegant atmosphere.

7. Kars Provincial Health Directorate

Originally built as a hospital in 1907, this elegant building is another fine example of Baltic architecture in Kars. Its façade features decorative columns, ornate reliefs, rosettes and medallions. A closer look reveals a harmonious blend of Baroque, Art Nouveau, and Baltic architectural styles, giving the building an eclectic character. Today, it serves as the Kars Provincial Health Directorate.

8. Kars Chamber of Commerce and Industry

Constructed by the Russians between 1878 and 1918 as a winter residence, this impressive building has served as the Kars Chamber of Commerce and Industry since 1923. While the overall design reflects Baltic architecture, the exterior is decorated with elegant Neo-Classical, Neo-Renaissance, and Neo-Baroque ornamentation.

9. Former Governor's Mansion & Treasury Building

These two neighboring buildings were also constructed by the Russians during the 19th century. Displaying many characteristics of Baltic architecture, they continue to serve as the Governor's Mansion and the Treasury Office today.

10. Fethiye Mosque

Originally built by the Russians as an Orthodox church during the 19th century, the building was converted into a mosque in 1985, when its twin minarets were added. The structure combines Baltic and Neo-Classical architectural elements. Rounded-arch windows and decorative three-leaf clover motifs on the façade are among its most distinctive features.

11. Kümbet Mosque

Originally known as the Church of the Twelve Apostles, this remarkable building was constructed by the Armenians during the 10th century. After the Seljuks conquered Kars, it was converted into a mosque and has continued serving as a place of worship ever since.

12. Ani Ruins

Arpaçay Nehri kıyısında, Ermenistan sınırında bulunan Ani Harabeleri; Situated on the banks of the Arpaçay River, directly on the border with Armenia, the Ancient City of Ani is one of Turkey's most extraordinary archaeological treasures. Around the 5th century AD, Ani became the capital of the Armenian Bagratid Kingdom. Thanks to its strategic location on the Silk Road, its population exceeded 100,000 during the 10th and 11th centuries, making it one of the most prosperous trading cities of the medieval world. Today, Ani offers visitors a rare opportunity to experience both Early Christian and Islamic architecture within the same archaeological site. There is truly no other place quite like it in Turkey. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2016, the complex contains numerous remarkable monuments, including: Church of Surp Grigor, Menuçehr Mosque, Fethiye Mosque, Church of Surp Prkich (Church of the Holy Redeemer).The impressive city walls and fortification gates Despite its historical significance and immense cultural value, I honestly believe Ani still doesn't receive the recognition it deserves. Had it been promoted as successfully as Göbeklitepe or Ephesus, it could have become one of Turkey's premier archaeological destinations. The visitor infrastructure could also be improved. Better walking paths, clearer signage, additional restoration work, and improved visitor facilities would make exploring the site far more enjoyable.

Since Ani is a vast open-air archaeological park, be prepared for the weather. Winters are extremely cold due to the exposed landscape, while summers can become quite hot under the sun. Admission is included with the Museum Pass (Müzekart). After entering the site, you can either explore on foot or use the small electric shuttle vehicles operated by local residents, which follow designated routes through the archaeological area. Walking the entire site may take several hours. Guided tours departing from Kars city center are also available.

13. Çıldır Lake

Situated at an altitude of nearly 2,000 metres, Çıldır Lake transforms into one of Eastern Turkey's most spectacular winter landscapes. As temperatures drop below -30°C, the lake freezes completely, forming an enormous sheet of ice that can sometimes reach three metres in thickness. During winter, visitors can walk across the frozen lake or enjoy a traditional horse-drawn sleigh ride, one of the region's most iconic experiences. The restaurants surrounding the lake serve freshly caught Çıldır Lake fish, making it the perfect place to enjoy local cuisine while taking in the breathtaking scenery. If you enjoy landscape photography, Çıldır Lake is undoubtedly one of the most photogenic locations in eastern Turkey.

Kars Food & Drink Guide

When people think of Kars, goose meat is usually the first local specialty that comes to mind. Raised exclusively in the region's high-altitude pastures, Kars geese develop exceptionally rich and flavorful meat thanks to the harsh winter climate. Traditionally, roast goose is served with bulgur pilaf, pickles, and fruit compote, creating one of the city's signature meals. Rich in nutrients and full of flavor, it's a dish every visitor should try. Kars is also famous for its honey, aged Kaşar cheese, and a wide variety of local cheeses—all well worth tasting. In my opinion, however, no visit to Kars is complete without enjoying a traditional local breakfast.

But is that all Kars has to offer? Absolutely not. Its centuries-old cultural ties with the Caucasus have had a profound influence on the local cuisine, resulting in a number of unique regional dishes.

Hıngel :Often described as Turkish ravioli without filling, Hıngel is served with yogurt and caramelized onions, creating a surprisingly comforting and delicious meal.

Evelik Aşı :A hearty soup prepared with evelik, a slightly sour wild leafy herb, combined with green lentils and meat broth.

Piti :A rich and flavorful stew made with lamb and chickpeas. It is traditionally cooked and served in a clay pot or glass bowl, then poured over pieces of traditional flatbread before eating.

1. Hanımeli Ev Yemekleri

We ordered roast goose with bulgur pilaf, Hıngel, and Piti, and thoroughly enjoyed every dish. This small, cosy family-run restaurant is operated entirely by local women and offers an authentic taste of Kars home cooking.

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2. Kale Kafe Restoran

This is undoubtedly one of Kars' most famous cultural venues, best known for its spectacular Caucasian folk dance performances and traditional Aşık poetry duels. It's especially popular with organized tour groups. There are two ways to experience the evening. The first option includes drinks, tea, popcorn and light snacks while you simply enjoy the performances. The second option includes dinner, allowing you to enjoy a traditional meal alongside the live entertainment. Throughout the evening you'll experience: Traditional Caucasian dance performances, Live folk music, Local singers and, best of all, the famous Aşık (Minstrel) poetry duels, performed free of charge as part of the show.

As a wonderful finale, everyone gathers around an outdoor fire during winter while an accordion player performs traditional songs, creating an unforgettable atmosphere that continues late into the night. The Caucasian dance performances were absolutely mesmerizing. Their energy, precision and elegance completely captivated us. Then came the Aşık poetry duel, replacing admiration with laughter and lifting away every bit of our travel fatigue. It's one of the best cultural experiences you can have in Kars.

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What is an Aşık Poetry Duel?

An Aşık Atışması is one of the oldest traditions of Turkish oral literature, especially common in Eastern Anatolia around Kars and Ardahan. Two or more folk poets (known as Aşıks) compete by improvising poetic verses, usually accompanied by the saz (Turkish lute). The verses are often humorous, playful and full of witty insults directed at one another. These performances have long been an important form of entertainment at weddings, festivals and community celebrations.
Adres: Yusufpaşa, Şht. Hulusi Aytekin Cd. No:13, 36000 Kars Merkez/Kars

3. Boğatepe Köy Ürünleri

One of many excellent local shops where you can purchase regional specialties such as Kars goose, aged Kaşar cheese, honey, and various traditional cheeses. The breakfast hall inside the shop is also highly recommended, allowing visitors to sample many local products before deciding what to buy.

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4. 1855 Gazi Restaurant

If you're looking for a quieter, more elegant dinner in a historic setting, 1855 Gazi Restaurant is an excellent choice. Housed in a beautifully preserved single-storey building inspired by Russian architecture, the restaurant offers a charming atmosphere accompanied by soft music. The menu is fairly extensive and offers something for almost everyone. Before leaving, don't miss Medovik, the famous Russian honey cake—it's one of the restaurant's standout desserts.

More Places to Visit

Unfortunately, no matter how carefully you plan your trip, it's impossible to see everything Kars has to offer. Because of our limited schedule, there were several places on our list that we simply didn't have time to visit. If your itinerary allows, consider adding these destinations to your travel plans.

1. Sarıkamış Ski Resort

Sarıkamış is one of the world's few ski resorts famous for its crystal powder snow, a rare type of snow highly prized by skiers. During our stay, we noticed visitors from several different countries who had come specifically to enjoy the winter sports here. In fact, many of the guests staying at our hotel were in Kars solely for skiing.

2. The Eastern Express Experience

One of Turkey's most iconic rail journeys, the Eastern Express (Doğu Ekspresi) runs from Ankara all the way to Kars. Although the journey is long, it rewards travelers with breathtaking landscapes throughout eastern Anatolia, making it a paradise for photography enthusiasts. Tickets sell out very quickly, so be sure to book well in advance.

3. Namık Kemal House

This historic house once belonged to Abdüllatif Pasha, the grandfather of the famous Turkish writer and poet Namık Kemal. Namık Kemal spent part of his youth here. Today, the building serves as the Folk Poets' Culture and Arts House, celebrating Turkey's rich tradition of folk literature.

4. Kars Museum

A modest but worthwhile museum displaying archaeological and historical artifacts discovered in Kars and the surrounding region. Admission is free of charge.

Don't Leave Without Eating...

One of Kars' most unforgettable culinary specialties is undoubtedly traditional Kars goose served with bulgur pilaf. You'll find this iconic local dish in many restaurants throughout the city center, and it's an experience no food lover should miss.  

Don't Leave Without Seeing...

The most memorable experiences of my trip to Kars were undoubtedly the Ancient City of Ani, the spectacular Caucasian folk dances, and the traditional Aşık poetry duels. Watching an Aşık poetry duel live was particularly special. It offered a rare opportunity to witness one of Anatolia's oldest oral traditions—an art form that is gradually disappearing. And of course, no visit to Kars would be complete without experiencing its legendary snow and freezing winter weather. I can honestly say that before this trip, I had never driven through a full-scale snowstorm. It was one of the most unforgettable moments of the entire journey. The video at the end of this guide is a little bonus for anyone planning to experience Kars in winter!

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